Category: Guides

Step-by-step DIY material guides with worked examples: how much concrete, how many bricks, how much paint and more, in US, UK, Canadian and Australian units.

  • How Many Bricks in a Square Metre? (With Mortar)

    The quick answer: there are 60 standard UK bricks in a square metre of single-skin (half-brick) wall, laid with the usual 10 mm mortar joints. In Australia, where the standard brick is larger, it is about 48.5 bricks per m². For a double-skin (one-brick thick) wall, double those figures.

    This guide shows where those numbers come from, how to work out the bricks and mortar for your own wall, and how much sand and cement to order. To skip the maths, use the brick and block calculator, which switches between UK, Australian and US brick sizes.

    Bricks per square metre at a glance

    UnitSize (mm)With 10 mm jointsPer m², single skinPer m², double skin
    UK standard brick215 × 102.5 × 65225 × 7560 (59.3 exactly)120
    Australian standard brick230 × 110 × 76240 × 8648.597
    UK concrete block440 × 100 × 215450 × 22510 (9.9 exactly)–
    Australian concrete block390 × 190 × 190400 × 20012.5–

    Bricklayers round the UK figure up to 60 because it makes the sums easy and gives a small built-in allowance. You should still add waste on top, as explained below.

    Where the 60 comes from

    A brick on its own does not cover much wall. What matters is the brick plus half a mortar joint on each side, sometimes called the coordinating size.

    1. Add the joint to the face of the brick. A UK brick face is 215 × 65 mm. Add 10 mm to each: 225 × 75 mm.
    2. Work out the area of one brick with its joint. 0.225 m × 0.075 m = 0.016875 m².
    3. Divide one square metre by that area. 1 ÷ 0.016875 = 59.3 bricks, rounded to 60.

    The same method gives the Australian figure: a 230 × 76 mm face plus 10 mm joints is 240 × 86 mm, or 0.02064 m², and 1 ÷ 0.02064 = 48.4, usually quoted as 48.5.

    If you are using a different brick, such as a reclaimed imperial brick or a thin brick slip, measure the face and use your own numbers in the same three steps.

    Worked example: a garden wall

    Say you are building a single-skin garden wall 6 metres long and 1.2 metres high, with no gaps or openings.

    • Wall area: 6 × 1.2 = 7.2 m²
    • Bricks (UK): 7.2 × 60 = 432, plus 5% waste = 453.6, so order 454 bricks
    • Bricks (Australia): 7.2 × 48.5 = 349.2, plus 5% waste = 366.7, so order 367 bricks
    • Double-skin version (UK): 7.2 × 120 × 1.05 = 908 bricks

    If the wall has a gate opening, work out its area and take it away before you multiply. A 1 m wide gap in that wall would take 1.2 m² off, saving about 76 UK bricks.

    How much waste to allow

    Bricks chip in transit, some will be the wrong colour for a face you can see, and you will cut plenty at ends and openings. As a guide:

    • 5% for a straight, simple wall with few cuts
    • 10% for walls with piers, corners, openings or decorative bonds
    • Extra spares if the bricks are a batch that may be hard to match later. Colours vary between production runs, so it is worth buying a few more than you need and keeping them for repairs.

    How much mortar do you need?

    Mortar is where most DIY estimates go wrong, because it is easy to underestimate. For a single-skin wall of UK bricks, the joints alone take about 0.017 m³ of mortar per square metre. In practice, with frogs filled and some dropped on the ground, allow about 0.02–0.03 m³ per m², or roughly 0.4–0.5 m³ per 1,000 bricks.

    Pre-mixed mortar bags

    For a small wall, 25 kg bags of ready-to-use mortar are the simplest option: you just add water. One bag lays roughly 30–35 bricks, depending on the joint size and how much you waste. For the 454-brick wall above, that is about 13 bags. For bigger jobs, mixing your own is far cheaper.

    Mixing your own: sand and cement

    A standard mix for general UK brickwork is 1 part cement to 4 or 5 parts building (soft) sand, with a plasticiser to make it workable. For work below the damp-proof course, retaining walls or very exposed spots, a stronger 1:3 mix is often specified.

    As a rule of thumb, 1,000 bricks need about 0.8 tonnes of building sand and 6–7 bags (25 kg) of cement. For our 454-brick wall, that is about 0.4 tonnes of sand (a small bulk bag is usually the easiest way to buy it) and 3 bags of cement.

    In Australia, a common general-purpose mortar is 1 part cement, 1 part lime and 6 parts sand (M3 class). Check what your engineer or the brick manufacturer recommends, especially for load-bearing or retaining walls.

    Things to check before you order

    • Wall height and foundations. Even a garden wall needs a proper concrete footing. Walls over about 1 m high, retaining walls and walls near a boundary may need extra design work or approval, depending on where you live.
    • Wall thickness. Tall or long garden walls are often built double-skin or with piers every few metres for stability. That doubles the bricks for those sections.
    • Copings and caps. Count the top course separately if you are using special coping bricks.
    • Delivery. Bricks usually come in packs of around 400–500. It can be cheaper to buy whole packs and keep the spares than to buy loose.

    Frequently asked questions

    How many bricks in a square metre of double-skin wall?

    About 120 UK bricks, or 97 Australian bricks. A double-skin wall is simply two single skins side by side, tied together with the bond or with wall ties.

    How many blocks in a square metre?

    About 10 standard UK concrete blocks (440 × 215 mm face) or 12.5 standard Australian blocks (390 × 190 mm face), both with 10 mm joints.

    How many bricks per square foot in the US?

    About 6.86 US modular bricks (7⅝ × 2¼ in face) per square foot of single-wythe wall with 3/8-inch joints. Switch the brick calculator to USA to use US sizes.

    Does the joint size really make a difference?

    Yes. With 12 mm joints instead of 10 mm, a UK brick with its joint covers a little more wall, so you need about 57 bricks per m² instead of 59–60, and noticeably more mortar. Stick to 10 mm unless you are matching existing brickwork.

    Work out your own wall: the free brick and block calculator gives you bricks, mortar bags and cost in UK, Australian or US sizes. Pouring a footing first? The concrete calculator covers that too.

    Figures are estimates for planning. Brick sizes, bag yields and local building rules vary, so check them with your supplier before you buy.

  • How Many Bags of Concrete for a 10×10 Slab?

    A 10 × 10 ft slab is one of the most common DIY pours: a shed base, a hot tub pad, a small patio or the floor of a garden room. The short answer is that a standard 4-inch-thick 10×10 slab needs about 56 bags of 80 lb concrete mix, or 59 bags once you add 5% for spillage. That is 1.23 cubic yards of concrete before waste, or 1.30 cubic yards with it.

    Below is how that number is worked out, what changes if you use 60 lb or 40 lb bags or pour a thicker slab, and when it makes more sense to stop mixing bags and order ready-mix instead. If you just want your own number, the concrete calculator does the maths for any size and thickness.

    Quick answer: bags for a 10×10 slab

    These figures assume a flat, square 10 × 10 ft slab (100 sq ft) and the typical yield printed on US bags of pre-mixed concrete. The figures in brackets include 5% extra, which is what we recommend you buy.

    Slab thicknessConcrete needed80 lb bags (0.60 cu ft each)60 lb bags (0.45 cu ft each)40 lb bags (0.30 cu ft each)
    4 in33.3 cu ft / 1.23 cu yd56 (59 with 5% extra)75 (78 with 5% extra)112 (117 with 5% extra)
    5 in41.7 cu ft / 1.54 cu yd70 (73 with 5% extra)93 (98 with 5% extra)139 (146 with 5% extra)
    6 in50.0 cu ft / 1.85 cu yd84 (88 with 5% extra)112 (117 with 5% extra)167 (175 with 5% extra)

    Bag yields vary slightly between brands, so check the back of the bag before you buy. Most US 80 lb bags make about 0.60 cubic feet of concrete, which is where these numbers come from.

    How to work it out yourself

    Every concrete estimate comes down to one idea: work out the volume of the slab, then divide it by how much concrete one bag makes.

    1. Convert the thickness to feet. 4 inches is 4 ÷ 12 = 0.333 ft.
    2. Multiply length × width × thickness. 10 × 10 × 0.333 = 33.3 cubic feet.
    3. Add a margin for waste. 33.3 × 1.05 = 35.0 cubic feet. Ground is never perfectly flat, forms bow slightly and some concrete always ends up on the tools and in the wheelbarrow.
    4. Divide by the bag yield. 35.0 ÷ 0.60 = 58.3 bags of 80 lb mix.
    5. Always round up. You cannot buy a third of a bag, and running short halfway through a pour is far worse than having one bag left over. Buy 59.

    To turn cubic feet into cubic yards, the unit ready-mix suppliers use, divide by 27. So 33.3 cu ft ÷ 27 = 1.23 cubic yards.

    How thick should a 10×10 slab be?

    Thickness makes a bigger difference to the bag count than most people expect. Going from 4 to 6 inches adds 50% more concrete.

    • 4 inches is the usual thickness for a shed base, garden path, small patio or a pad for an AC unit.
    • 5 inches suits a hot tub pad or a slab that will carry heavy garden equipment.
    • 6 inches is the norm for a slab that a car or small vehicle will drive on.

    If your slab will carry a structure such as a garage or garden room, or you are unsure, check your local building code before you pour. Many areas have rules on thickness, reinforcement and footings for anything you will build on.

    Bags or ready-mix: which is cheaper?

    At typical US prices in September 2026, an 80 lb bag of concrete mix costs around $7, so 59 bags come to roughly $413. The same 1.30 cubic yards of ready-mix at around $175 a yard is about $227, before any delivery charges.

    That gap is not the whole story. Many ready-mix plants add a short-load fee for small orders, which can wipe out much of the saving on a slab this size. Ask your local supplier for a delivered price on 1.5 cubic yards and compare it with the bag total.

    The bigger difference is labour. Fifty-nine 80 lb bags is about 4,700 lb of material to lift, mix and place, and each bag needs mixing with water. With a hand-mixed wheelbarrow that is a long, hard day for two people, and the first section can start to set before the last is poured. As a rough rule:

    • Under about 1 cubic yard, bags are usually the practical choice.
    • Between 1 and 2 cubic yards (where a 10×10 slab sits), rent a small electric mixer and line up at least two helpers, or get a ready-mix quote.
    • Over 2 cubic yards, ready-mix is almost always easier and more consistent.

    Don’t forget the base

    A slab is only as good as what is underneath it. For most garden slabs, lay 4 inches of compacted gravel (crushed stone or road base) before you pour. For a 10×10 slab, that is about 1.23 cubic yards of gravel before compaction; order 10–15% more, because it settles as you tamp it down. The gravel calculator will give you the tonnage for your supplier.

    For slabs that will carry weight, add wire mesh or rebar set on small supports so it sits in the middle of the slab rather than on the ground. It will not stop concrete cracking altogether, but it holds the pieces together so cracks stay tight.

    If you buy concrete in metric bags

    In Canada, concrete mix is often sold in 30 kg bags. A 10 × 10 ft slab at 4 inches is about 0.94 m³, or 0.99 m³ with 5% extra. Many 30 kg bags make roughly 0.014 m³, which works out at about 71 bags, but yields differ between brands, so read the bag and adjust. Switch the concrete calculator to Canada and metric to see it in cubic metres.

    Common mistakes that leave you short

    • Measuring the thickness at one corner. Dig-outs are rarely level. Measure the depth in several places and use the average, or the deepest point if the ground slopes.
    • Forgetting the edges. If you are thickening the edges of the slab (common for sheds), add that extra volume.
    • Using nominal board sizes. A “2×4” used as a form is only 3.5 inches tall, so a slab formed with 2x4s is 3.5 in thick, not 4.
    • Rounding down. Always buy the next whole bag. Unopened bags can usually be returned if you keep the receipt.

    Frequently asked questions

    How many 80 lb bags of concrete make a cubic yard?

    About 45 bags, because a cubic yard is 27 cubic feet and each 80 lb bag makes about 0.60 cubic feet. With 60 lb bags you need 60, and with 40 lb bags you need 90.

    How many bags of concrete for a 10×10 slab 6 inches thick?

    About 84 bags of 80 lb mix, or 88 once you add 5% for waste. At this size, ready-mix is usually the better option.

    Can I pour a 10×10 slab in sections?

    You can, using a board to divide the slab and pouring one half at a time, but each joint is a weak point. For a slab this small, it is better to get enough help and mixing capacity to pour it all in one go.

    How long before I can walk or build on it?

    You can usually walk on it after 24 to 48 hours. Concrete typically reaches about 70% of its strength after 7 days and its full design strength after 28. Keep it damp for the first few days, especially in hot weather, so it does not dry out too fast and crack.

    Work out your own slab: try the free concrete calculator for bags and ready-mix costs, or the paver calculator if you are weighing up pavers instead of a solid slab.

    Figures are estimates for planning. Bag yields, prices and local building rules vary, so check them with your supplier before you buy.